The Wat Ho Phra Keo, the Visiting Monks and Selfies

The second wat or temple I have visited in Vientiane is the Wat Ho Phra Keo or Haw Phra Kaew. I have seen quite a number of Buddhist wats during my visit in Bangkok and Ayutthaya in Thailand, and in Cambodia. By now, they tend to look the same to me- which I think is more due to the fact that I lack knowledge of Buddhism ,which make me miss the details.

But what is special about the Wat Ho Phra Keow is that it was built in the 1500s to be the temple for the Laotian royals and it also housed the Emerald Buddha.   It is said that the Emerald Buddha was seized by the Thais when Siam raided Vientiane in 1700s.  The Emerald Buddha is now displayed in the temple in the Grand Palace in Bangkok. Now, visitors of Thailand always include a visit to the Emerald Buddha in their itineraries. What a loss to Vientiane! 

The congregation hall

A lady getting ready to welcome the visitors

The Ho Phra Keo is a small wat with a small beautiful garden. The temple is adorned with bronze Buddha statues.  The wood carvings are likewise impressive. The temple or the congregation hall is now a museum.  

Situated just across the Wat Sisaket and right beside the Palais Presidentiel, Wat Ho Phra Keo gets a lot of visitors. Among these visitors are several bus loads of monks which I chanced upon during my visit. It's interesting to see these men, wearing bright orange clad robes, all lined up to visit the temple. But what's more interesting is that most of them have their ipads with them, taking their selfies. Too bad I was not able to take a picture of their selfie moments because by then they were already giving me that warning look. 

The Wat Ho Phra Keo is is open everyday, and admission fee is 5,000 kip.  It is located along Setthathirath Road, beside the Palais Presidentiel and across the Wat Sisaket.

The Wat Sisaket and the Monks-To-Be

Situated across the Palais Presidentiel along Lan Xang and Setthathirat Road,the oldest Wat in Vientiane is easily filled up with guests. Bus loads of tourists alighted at Wat Sisaket during my visit in January 2015.

There is an entrance fee to the wat for 5,000 kip (if I remember correctly). Visitors are free to take pictures in the garden within the courtyard, but not inside the main temple or the ordination hall.

Tourists and tour guide on the way to the courtyard, after paying the admission fee

Wat Sisaket was built in the early 1800s. At the entrance is a garden, golden Buddha statues, and the drum tower. 

The cleaner, at the wat's garden

The golden Buddhas

The drum tower, with Nagas guarding its stairway

Upon entry in the courtyard, there is the temple or the ordination hall. Those who enter the temple must leave their shoes or slippers outside. The temple is surrounded by the courtyard galleries which house thousands of seated and standing Budhha statues, of all sizes and made of wood, silver, bronze and ceramics. 

The temple or the ordination hall in the middle of the courtyard

The courtyard galleries

Wat Sisaket is also a monastery. There were a number of novice monks roaming around - cleaning, pushing carts, preparing offerings, talking and laughing. Young as they are, I cannot help but wonder if a monastery is a good enough place for these young children to grow up?

Chao Anouvong Statue and Park

Along the bank of the Mekong river, and directly across the Palais Presidentiel, the statue of Chao Anouvong stands proud.  He is said to be the last king of Laos, and has fought the Thai invaders in the 1800s. He was defeated and died as prisoner in Thailand, then called Siam, but is considered a war hero by the Laotian.

His 6 foot statue is made of bronze , facing the Mekong river (it is said to be facing in the direction of Thailand).  At the foot of his statue is an altar where people pray and make offerings such as incense, flowers and food. 

The statue is in a small park called Chao Anouvong Park.  During early mornings, it is a good place to jog or walk, ride a bike, do Tai Ichi's , hang out with friends, or catch sunrise. At night, there is a night market selling mostly Laotian and Thai goods.

The park and the statue are both free of charge.

The Patuxai, the Laotian version of France's Arc de Triompe

The Patuxai is another landmark in Vientiane. It was said that it was built from the cement donated by the United States after World War 2,  for them to build their airport.  They chose to build this monument, however.  

The Patuxai is a war monument built in memory of those who fought for their independence from France.  What I find ironic, however, is the striking similarity to France's Arc de Triompe. It is when you look at the details that you will see the Laotian designs.  The ceilings and the arches contain images of Hindu gods and mythical creatures such as the kinnaree (half human, half bird). 

The Patuxai has 4 gateways, facing the four directions.  Visitors can climb up to the view deck, for a 5,000 kip fee (or equivalent to 60 cents in US dollars). While climbing to the view deck, it is evident that the monument is a bit run down. Having many stall souvenir vendors inside also makes the place feel cramped and untidy.  

At the view deck, visitors will enjoy the view of the city.  It gives you a good view of the Palais Presidentiel.  Visitors may also hang out at the Patuxai Park, where there is a musical fountain. The park is free of charge.

The Patouxai is at the end of Lang Xang Avenue. It took me 10 minutes to walk from the palais to the monument.  Not bad at all.   

The Palais Presidentiel in Vientiane

Listed as one of the landmarks in Vientiane, the Palais Presidentiel is an imposing structure along Lane Xang street.  The Palais, built in 1973, is a huge, beautiful French building.
Monarchy in Laos has been banished in the early 70s, and therefore, no monarchy lives in the palais. It is now used for formal government ceremonies.



View from Lane Xang Street



I  wish it was possible to go inside or roam its garden, just like the beautiful palaces in Germany or in the United Kingdom.However, it is closed to the public.  When I passed by the palais, coming from the patouxai, there were government officials coming out of the palais ( complete with steady siren blasts to announce their presence and to clear the street so they can pass, unhampered, of course).  

 

 

 

 The palais is a stone's throw away from the Chao Anouvong monument and park, which is the best place to view and take photos of the palais, as the park is not as busy as the Lane Xang Street. .

 

 

Vientiane: Something Laotian, Something French

Something Laotian and something French... Isn't Vientiane lovely? :).

Early this year, my work took me to Laos, a socialist and predominantly Buddhist SouthEast Asian country. I knew that it is a small country, as compared to its neighbors, Cambodia and Vietnam, and I have expected Vientiane, its capital city, to be very laid back.

Well, it is indeed laid back, as compared to other Southeast Asian capital cities, but Vientiane surprised me with its French architecture  amidst the Buddhist temples, ,monuments of its past monarchy , the Mekong riverside restaurants and some bullet riddled world war 2 buildings.

I was billeted at Beau Rivage Hotel Mekong. Beau Rivage (which means beautiful shore) sits very close to the Mekong River and is pretty close to the city center and other attractions.Everywhere in the hotel is a display of Lao traditional blanket weaves. The hotel felt very homey. 

My room at the 2nd floor

I loved strolling along the Mekong River- early in the morning, before I went to work, and in the evenings.  Many people jog, while I tirelessly take (tons of) pictures of lovely sunrise.  I can't have enough of sunrise. 

Mekong sunrise

Mekong sunrise

These early morning walks before also allowed me to see glimpses of the daily lives of the locals:  make shift markets along the roads, "baby" monks roaming around with alms bowl and some old ladies sitting by the road and waiting for the monks to pass by to give them something. There are also those bullet riddled buildings remnant of world war 2.

At night restaurants set up tables and chairs for al fresco dining at the riverside. My favorites were the grilled fish and hotpot. 

Dining at Mekong riverside

Despite it being a business trip, I had Saturday off and I went to see some sights. Luckily, many are within walking distance from my hotel: the Palais Presidentiel, which is very French, as is the Patuxai.  The different Wats or temples are also within the city center:  the Ho Pra Keo and Wat Sisaket.  The Chao Anouvong statue is also by the Mekong river, on the same street as the hotel.

Different sights in Central Vientiane

Well, I wish to be back some time again!